Took out the longboard for another session. Sprained my ankle a couple weeks ago and Doc said not to stand up surf until the 18th. So mostly just worked on paddling and such. Did catch one decent wave that was a good deal of white water, but managed to stand up on my own for the first time.
The point break wasn't doing much (small SW swell) and was crowded, so I paddling out a bit to the middle area of the reef break and tried to catch the edge of a few waves for practice. Wasn't crowded there at all, pretty nice area where you can find a 'safe zone' where it gets deep and the waves back off, before breaking again a bit futher in. There is a lot of current though, so just 'sitting' in one spot waiting for a good wav takes a bit of paddling, otherwise it will pull you into the main impact zone.
Looking forward to getting back out here as I gain experience since this wave is so consistant. For now it's nice when the swell is small and the other local areas are either crowded or unsurfable.
