Wicked morning session on the board I have dubbed the "tank". Awesome break with a lot of good waves, managed to snag my share of decent ones off the shoulder. I find it difficult to surf the main section just because of how heavy the shredder is to paddle back out, especially through the whitewater. Still, a fun time overall. Went back in the afternoon but the waves weren't as nice and I was a little tired from the morning session (only took a 2 hour break in between sessions), and I got fairly well worked by one particular 6ft set that I missed the first one of then got swamped by the second and third... these shredder boards are hell if you get caught in the wrong spot on anything breaking head high because theyre so dodgy to maneuvre... all in all though this was a pretty decent day, especially in the am. That North swell gave us some sweet sets.
