It was a very good session : big wave, yes big waves ! we were only 3 surfers in the water at the peak of the swell. i took some big drop: hard to take, hard paddling, I can't see anything then a long long wall. With the lower tide, more people came. I felt several time because of wind.
That looks like some big narly waves. Last time surfed anything that big was this past Summer at Dana. Big walls ... just flying ... the pit below ... the lip feathering ... both up and in front! Got lucky, made the first one then got in the zone, knocked off three more back to back!
