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My Surf

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comment by lucky, 2006-04-05 14:15:51

fickle but....
...had this place grinding off for 200m's. heavy rain will determine everything

comment by anonymous, 2006-02-27 08:43:18


I remember Dong-he back in the 40's when I fled China for Formosa. Brought my 12 foot Shanghai tanker and ripped the place up for at least three generations before the Wai guo ren started showing up. I now live above the break, in a nice little San He Yuen, and usually surf a secret left bowl north of there. I'm now 95, but I still shoot the curl like Gerry Lopez on Javanese Mescalin.

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