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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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SOUTHY - went out south narrabeen on thursday some nice 6 footers but a bit messy and choppy.
visiting manly - im thinking of visiting nsw for a three month trip,are there any cheap places to stay?is it easy to get a job there?
By Big Dan
North Narra - The North Narra crew are to be respected but are generally pretty good and not too agro unless you do something silly. However there is a bloke at North Narra who wears a green and black sleeve length rashie and dark hair who has a habit of doing cutbacks to close to people paddling under waves. He ran over me and my mate last year,but we kept our cool. Nothing serious, but makes you want to wait in the car park with a baseball bat.One day he will do it to the wrong person and it will get ugly.Its a shame, the water should be fun.He brings the rep of the whole crew down.
Localim on Northern Beaches - Being also one lucky fella who lived in the area for some years I gotta support Gerry's comment. Considering the number and QUALITY of surfers in this area the atmosphere is definetly relaxed. N. Narra and Curlie might be a bit heavier (and are alright to be) but I never had problems (being from overseas). Same as everywhere: Check out the the spot, don't paddle to the best peak straightaway, repect the locals (even the 15 year old hotshots) and do not always pic the nicest parking spots at Curlie! Basicly: make yourself welcome. easy. Ah yeah, and learn surfing and practice with the Minimal in some crappy place of Manly. Not that all of manly is crappy, not at all, but ... Than you might experience one of the most laid back (metropolitan) surf crowds ever.
best seasons - i find the best surf is around Easter time, we get those nice NE swells and generally offshore every morning and the water is still up there arounf 22 degrees, its my favourite time of year. and also anyone who is coming here and is looking forward to surfing the famous MANLY beach, its nothing special mostly 1-2foot when other spots are getting a good 3foot wave coming in, its also crouded as a sheep fucking farm in new Zealand, places like Curly, NN, Mona Vale anre the good spots.
Grow Up - I have been lucky enough to have lived & surfed on the beautiful northern beaches of Sydney for about 4 years, and considering the number of surfers sharing the waves the atmosphere in the water is quite OK.However reading most of the pathetic aggro comments posted on this site by local surfers, you'd think sydney surfers are a bunch of immature, ignorant, spoilt little pricks who spend so much time listening to M & M that you now all talk like some sad, white boy, "Gangsta" with a really bad shortarse complex.For god sake grow up & say something sensible as you're an embarrassment to sydney & australia in the eyes of the people from around the world who log in to this site.
oh, i wish i wish i hadnt killed that fish - Gee i really hate how this site gives away epic spots. for this particular section (northern beaches of sydney), its not so bad to write up the spots because everyone knows them, but out of sydney, writing up spots is real dumb. even if you dont reveal the location, some idiot in the comments section will give enough clues away to bring one new person along, and one tells another, tells another etc - the domino effect really. and a lot of spots are written up inaccurately, and given far too many stars than they should be, simply because its some kook writing the report. it needs consistency, or better yet, it needs to not even exist at all. since when did waves become about the internet man, the waves should be about getting out there and having a punt, and on the odd occasion blowing your wad when you venture around a headland to find an epic peak spitting its guts out. lets get back to our roots...
reports - im starting reports on this site, so if your in need of knowing when the next big swells on its way then click reports.
By Peter Kitchingman firstname.lastname@example.org au
Surfing Fairy Bower in the 60s - One favourite spot that I used to surf a lot in the early 60s, when I lived in Sydney was Fairy Bower. Most times it was in Winter but spent many a weekend there in Summer floating around on the Mal waiting for the odd good one to pop up. Winter was the best time as the waves were bigger and better and the take off inside Surge rock was adrenalin pumping. Generally I used to leave work on Friday night and head for Manly, dump my board at someone's place and spend a couple of hours at the Manly hotel, not getting pissed but just enjoying the music and fellow surfers and talking of the different spots and breaks we had surfed over the past couple of weeks. I would then drive my black Mini 850 and park it next to the Deli on Bower St and crash out for the night. But before I did crash out I used to pull the Mal of the roof racks and stick it under the Mini with the skeg up against the wall so no one would pinch it. At first light, this could be 4am in Summer and slightly later in Winter, I would change into my boardshorts and paddle across the bay to the point. Most times I was first out there and generally cracking waves as the sun came up behind me. I must admit the crowds were non existence during those days but the memories are still vivid. As I mentioned before, taking off from the inside of Surge guaranteed you a good ride and a wave to yourself if you got across Surge OK most of the guys would back off. On bigger days it wasn't so bad and Surge was generally just a dip in the ocean but on smaller swells days it was ever present. Some of my most memorable days was in winter when the swells wrapped around the point in decent size breaks and one could get an awesome ride. The sea urchins were ever present and when one came of their board you made sure that you never put your foot down, I still have a small piece broken of in my front part of my foot but it hasn't worried me so it can stay there, in fact I had forgotten about till I started writing this. I only went around the corner once to Winky Pop but with a Mal it was too dangerous and if you lost your board it was a goner with all those rocks but on today's short boards I suppose there are many who venture around to that spot. I would repeat the whole thing again on Saturday night and Sunday morning and only coming in for a bite to eat at lunch time.Magic spot and lazy days and one thing I can remember is when I got home Mum sometimes said "gees you've grown since we last saw you".
ARE YOU SURPRISED! - I NEED HELP TRYING TO CONTACT SOME CONVICT CLOGG HAPPY CHEESE MAKERS THERE LIFE GAURDS AROUND AVALON, COME BUILDER TIPES , TWO BROS SEAN AND BJORN,TEEAN AND JOUL AS WELL , IF YOU KNOW THEM TELL THEM STACKER FROM TREYARNON ENGLAND IS LOOKING FOR THEM, CHEERS DINGO LUVERS...
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