yeah, its true, we need to share the wave
You get stoked and learn to surf and the white water is your playground. And then sooner or later, it's time to go to the next level. For a guy like me, I've been stoked since I started in central america a few years ago. Then I took some lessons. I see guys ripping or even just riding the green and I get stoked. I look up to you, I ask questions (or want to) and I work to get better. I manage my board and am super aware. Now I've got new boards. Board that if dinged by a big learner board, it's going to cost me money. But that happens. So all I'm saying is be positive. The famous saying goes, "a person might not remember what you say, but they will always remember how you made them feel". Every one of us puts a lot of money into this sport. We surf in the friggin' winter, if that's any indication of the dedication. So give some space to the new guy. Want to make his day. Tell him, You're up or Take that one, it's got your name on it. Those have been the best times for me. I sit, I wait, I decide to go and I get snaked or blocked but hey, that's not my deal, that's someone else's deal But overall, surfing's the greatest thing in my life (one of the greatest). I live near Whistler and I could care. I go to Hawaii and I am in heaven. Locals around the world get it. Most give a little. Like people say, we're not the first. And I think that that awesome feeling should be shared. Spread out of friendliness because we're all out there for that great feeling that helps put life in perspective. Oh, and one other thing. I want to point out that there can be localism or just a bunch of friends out here and maybe you've done them wrong by accident. But at the same time remember that there are people out there who can make life hell for you. They start figuring out what you drive and it can get ugly. I for example have military experience and personal own registered and non-registered rifles. It's not where we should be. We should be in the water chasing that feeling. Surfing isn't some time passer. It's more than that. F**k Tennis, surfing's the thing.
Seagrass.
comment by Anonymous, 2007-10-12 17:45:07
wow
wow....people need to chill out. There is no localism in Tofino. Just surf and have fun (learn the rules though). No one owns the ocean.
comment by boss, 2007-04-04 17:42:36
remember
it seems like some surfers dont remember how there first days in the water were .im shure everyone had the same problems and dificulties so try to give the beginers a break we all started the same
comment by Anonymous, 2009-01-08 06:48:58