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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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la meme meme gros tubulbe - vagues (droite et gauche) à aux risques et garde des forces pour le retour face au courant...respect pour ceux qui la surfe à + de 2m.
Hermitage left - Hello ! I am a local surfer of la Réunion Island and I wwould like to precise some few things abour his wave : This wave is known as only for kamikaze wave. Up to 4 feet, you got 30% chance to break your board and to rape yourself on the coral reef which is very near the surface. That's why this wave is never crowded (maximum 6 persons !) because all people scare ! This wave is maxi 50 meter long ridable. It is extremly sensible at wind and don't support any wind except the wind coming from north. In december and january, you can get perfect conditions till 10 feet with perfect but less thna 10 meter long tube. This wave is always very powerfull and very dangerous when big. It's better to surf from 10 AM to 5 PM because the lifeguards always have an eye on the surfers and comme to catch you after you break your leash or your board which happens very often in hard conditions. And without surf, no hope to come back because of the extremly powerfull current (some chains are disposed at the fontier of the laggon to avoid people that are swimming from getting away..) ! You have to wait for the lifeguards or, to chose to let you bring by the wave on the reef on which you are sure to scratch your board but to be safe : if you have boots, you can walk on this razor reef and cross it to the inside of the lagoon ! Don't forget there are sharks here so take your responsability if you let your blood ! In conclusion, be very careful when you surf there and don't go alone for the first time. Same comments for the Hermitage right wave which is a little bit less interesting and run less often.
l'hermit l'est l à, té !!! - hermit left = vague à tube
Hermitage Left - Hairy but worth it. Beautiful scenery and world class wave. Let yourself be taken out by rip through channel and get back in round the side. (Mate and I managed to do just the reverse once. Good one!) Careful paddling on low tide as gets very shallow. Apparently a little sharky.
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