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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By Cornish Booger
Great Wave - Agro locals - I stayed here for a week at the beggening of May 2011. I had Shipwrecks sick everyday for the week. Great for Bodyboarders and Stand ups! However on my last day I got dropped in on by a local guy about my age (21), on a big wave at Shippies, We both got worked! as soon as we popped up i went to see if he was ok and he got right up in my face and was yelling at me etc, his friends all paddled over to intimidate me. I apologized many times (although it was he who dropped me)I think that I am quite lucky not have got bashed! Its a real shame as the Island is beautiful and the waves are killer. Having said all of this I am going back tommorow ( this is 2 weeks on) I wonder if I will make it back in one piece haha . . . TBC!
Shipwreaks - well it certainly ain't as relaxed as Playgrounds. Fantastic break when it works but my god do you have to paddle hard at mid tide just to stay in position.
You'll find your usual mix of failed pros who think every wave is theirs and from time to time locals who aren't clever enough to realize that tourists bring the money that means they don't have work as seaweed farmers.
Keep a cool head and laugh at those who take themselves too seriously out there.
what a shame things change - i surfed here in the mid 80's and spent a month on the island and had an absolute ball ! Locals were really nice and laid back shame things change. obviously the day trippers have also addded to the crap where before it was only surfers staying on the island. oh well sounds like i won't be rushing back as i'm due back in Bali next year after almost 10 years away i'm certain that it won't be the same as before and probably won't be back again either
Royo - march/Apr, onshore, end of wet season , not much swell.whatddya think??
Rickey lembongan - There is a local named rickey he has a blue charter boat, he is a stand over man who is friends with japanese surfers who pay him to block waves and order people out of the water. it is a joke and so is he.
Shipwrecks - We got very fun waves here in May 08, from flat on low tide to 4feet sets, such perfection, pity about the kraut from Germany who thought he had to drop in on everybody, but thanks to some big aussies tell him to sort himself out. Next day he was not there differnt vibe, mellow like it should be.
help - whats the waves like in march april i need to know
Dec-Jan - Surfed there dec 2006, only shippies worked and only in the morning (around 7am-10am). Was small, about 2ft sometimes 3ft on bomb sets. Locals are mostly friendly and whens its small all the groms are out.
nusa lembongan in feb - any one know what these spots are like in jauary/feb? cheers.
hope its gd in june!!!!!! - hey im gon be 12 wen i go there next year if its not goo dim not gonnabe happy evers our new maccause i want to make surf movie and crap i hope to surf all the main breaks on the island and go fishen and skuba divin
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