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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By Alamoe da hairstylist
This place got its name fr:shallow reefs brah. - If you wipeout over the razor-sharp reefs here, you'll get a free "razor-cut" style of hair-cut, + hopefully not lose the skin off your nose brah. Much mahalo brah-lo!
By Kelly Rhode
This places cranks - Friggin place cranks. When it hits 6 - 8 plus, it feels a bit like Sunset. I've even caught it at 10 -12 on freak swells. You don't know you're on the south shore. Steep and powerful takeoffs. The paddle outs can be tough if 1 wave hits you. You just about have to paddle all the way out on the left or right if that happens. Once you get comfortable with the peak, the take off is absolutely hana hou.I saw many men in grey suits out there. One time I had one coming at me and I had to take off or else. He would have had no problem snatching me right off the wave. His whole body was shaking and he was 1 arms length away in the face of the wave. I was more than happy when the wave broke and I proned out on my 9'6" gun. I paddled straight in and I was the only one surfing that day. I saw 2 body boarders heading out as I was in the small lagoon. They thought I was kidding when I told them "Don't go out today, the big Manu is out there and he is not happy". But they figured it out seconds later when they saw me stoking by as fast as my arms would go.Damn Heineken beer tasted good that day when i got in.
By local boy missing home
Looking for Ricky Bell - Your knowledge of Swabbies tells me you're for real...... which is much more than I can say for some of the others who "think" they know about Swabbieland.Went to school w/a Ricky Bell. He also had a brother named Mike. I considered them really good friends. Might you be that Ricky?I still consider myself an Ewa Beach boy even though I've moved away. Try to get back a few times a yr. Its changed so much. Johns, Coves and Chicken Creek might be destroyed thanks to a new marina being built in the area. It looks like Shark Country should be alright. I'll look for your response and than give you my email so we an "talk story".
dont bother - if you are in Hawaii, go to the good spots and dont waster your time here
GAY - This beach is for little fags this should only be a longboarding beach because that is all it is fit for...And fawkin little punks always go here and try to start something...My advice is to only go here for longboarding because this wave is so small and weak...
Pics are wrong - The pics shown for this spot are wrong. Fast and long walls on lefts and even faster and bowly rights. My favorite south shore spot, mostly uncrowded quality break makes the long paddle worth it
barbers point and wwhite plains - What is the difference between these two beaches they are the same mofokin place!!!!And both of these waves are weak...
Rick Bell - How strange to see my name in print. I have just found this website and have been looking at alot of the old spots to see how they are holding up. Surfing the outside reef at the base daily was a joy. Would love to go out there again.
By Rick Bell
Swabbyland - Surfed this break 1969-72 when stationed at CG base. Wrapped around from N shore 10+ rt screamers in huge N swell of '69 (See Riding Giants). Left Hi. June 72 and rode 10+ tubes until time to catch plane. That swell took out Ala Moana "pole set" poles. Rt better than lt and channel inside stopped your lost board from washing too far away (pre leash era). Steve Pancake said "You can roll under your board at Sunset when caught inside ,but Swabbies will take it lke you never had it." Luckily you can paddle around both ways. From the air the white water forms a perfect triangle (I watched it flying "touch and goes" in the pattern to B.P.) My favorite all time break-long and fast.
Get new pics - Those three pics aren't even from B point. There all from White plains. Barbers gets fun, but if you don't know what your doing, stay down at White Plains. Made the mistake of surfing there once and some chick hangin out with some kook army dudes dinged my fish cause she didn't know what wave etiquette was. In fact 90% of the people at White Plains don't have any wave etiquette.
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