Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Datum: WGS84 [ Help ] |
Latitude: 39° 18.096' N |
User rating (11)
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It's a river mouth... can't be that hard to find. River meets ocean- tuddah. DistanceTake a car WalkShort walk (5-15 mn) Easy to find?OK Public access?Public access Special accessDon't know |
Wave qualityNormal
ExperienceBeginners wave
FrequencyDon't know
TypeRivermouth
DirectionRight and left
BottomSandy with rock
PowerOrdinary, Fun, Powerless
Normal lengthShort (< 50m)
Good day lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good swell directionNorthWest, West, SouthWest
Good wind directionNorthEast
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft and holds up to 3m+ / 10ft+
Best tide positionMid and high tide
Best tide movementRising tide
Week crowdEmpty
Week-end crowdFew surfers
- Rips / undertow
- Sharks
I've been chased out by a White here on an outgoing tide. Never surf rivermouths on Outgoing tides, unless it's just that good. Sharks can be a problem as with the currents. Be safe.
Atmosphere
In general a semi-fun place to get wet. With the right conditions it can get good.
General
Just another wave.
Author: Anonymous Contributors (2)
Big river |
Big river |
Big river |
Big river |
By Anonymous , 05-02-2008
myth? only if told its great - it is kind of sloppy but its a surf break. Can be good little windswell peaks (but usually short rides) when everywhere else is blown out. definitely not a destination or 3 star or above wave. almost always closes out over head high.
By A local , 01-02-2008
Big River - I've surfed this coast for two decades, and maybe I'm more inclined to surf a certain left reef further down the coast or a couple of sandbars north of town on south swells, but I have never seen this rivermouth fire and have only seen one old grainy photo of a good overhead wave. Big River, as far as I'm concerned, is a myth.
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By Anonymous , 07-03-2008
I'm a believer? - So I take back what I said about the rivermouth. I've seen its potential and still can't believe I caught that place good twice in one week. Yesterday was insane. Low tide, 6 feet @ 15-to-17 seconds and a straight offshore wind. Light pack of locals. Plenty of waves for everyone. I think I might actually be sad when the bar goes away.